This spring, I had been invited to Butler, Pennsylvania for a press tour, and with the weather so enjoyable, I arrived early to take in some biking on two of Pennsylvania’s excellent bike paths. It ended up becoming a much better ride than I ever imagined with two great historical discoveries made along the way. One was dead center on the trail and one was but a short side trip off the trail.
Starting out just outside Butler, Pennsylvania, I headed south on the Butler Freeport Community Trail. This is a 21-mile trail following the tracks of Butler County’s first railroad, the Western Pennsylvania Railroad which connected these two towns in 1871. Primarily crushed limestone, the trail rises about 260 feet over the first 7 miles while heading south. From there until Freeport; it’s mostly downhill from an elevation of 1,279 feet to a low of 740 feet. 14 miles of downhill makes for a nice ride.
About six miles outside of Butler, almost to the highest point on the trail, I happened on the little town of Herman, the first of my two discoveries. There, just a few yards from the trail, was the old train station that served the Western Pennsylvania Railroad in its heyday. Not only a train station, it was also a post office, a general store and their residence – all started in 1886 by Martin Dittmer. In 1907, his cousin Joseph John Dittmer purchased the building and continued operating the three enterprises with his wife and 11 children. Looking at the property, I couldn’t help but wonder where they all slept – maybe they slept in shifts.
Wherever they slept, they were probably all thrown from their beds when a passing freight train derailed right outside their building in January, 1941. Luckily no one was seriously injured, but the tracks were shut down for a good number of days while the cars were righted and the track was repaired.
With the advent of the automobile, the train fell out of favor and the train station closed. Mrs Dittmer passed away in 1979 at the age of 100 and the post office was relocated in 1986. Now the building sits empty. Empty, but not without memories. Luckily, a historical board along the bike trail chronicles the historic past for this great little hilltop home.
Continuing south, the bike path cut through some hills that had obviously been excavated for the train line years ago. Now, the sides of the shale hills have begun to grow over with vegetation, making a cool, green canopy for the bike path. Further along, as the path exits this shaded area, the bikeway goes right through a large, working farm. Signs remind you to stay on the path, but you are treated to sights you’d never get to see if you travelled by car.
About half-way to Freeport, I left the trail and headed west to the picturesque town of Saxonburg. I had been told about the wonderful lunch to be had at the historic Hotel Saxonburg, and it was getting to be about that time. Originally built in 1832, Judy Ferree purchased and renovated this stately hotel and restaurant in 2010, and continues to operate it today. Lunch was every bit as good as promised. I totally enjoyed the seafood chowder, followed by a refreshing chicken salad with fresh strawberries, almonds and poppy seed dressing. Upstairs, the rooms have been faithfully refurbished with antique furniture to reflect a late 1800’s period. If you like antiques, be sure to check these out.
After lunch, I had the good fortune to meet up with Clarence Anderson, keeper of Saxonburg’s history and historian extraordinaire. Before heading south again, he was nice enough to give me a whirlwind tour of the Main Street.
First we met Jim at Main Stay B&B, just a stone’s throw from the hotel. Jim and his partner have done an amazing job of remodelling and decorating this delightful, chic getaway. From the Safari Room, to the Florida Suite to the Mission Room to the Pine Suite, each room is unique in its decor, creating a selection of rooms that should appeal to just about anyone. With complimentary wireless Internet access and a library that can be used for meetings, this is a perfect place for business people as well as vacationers.
At the end of the road we poked our heads in the original landmark Saxonburg Memorial Church before turning the corner and proceeding down to the 6,000 square foot Saxonburg Museum. I must admit that I had some trepidation about spending much time at the museum, having been lured into some rather poorly done town museums in the past. To my delight, this was anything but boring. The historical commission responsible for the museum has accumulated a truly fascinating collection of memorabilia that celebrates this area. Room after room of various collections demanded much more time to explore and enjoy than I has allotted.
Turns out that KDKA, the nation’s first broadcast radio station was located right here in Saxonburg and some of their old equipment is on display. From cars to buggies, tools to fashion, military to agriculture – the museum has a great collection of history that will be sure to bring back memories for the older generation and create a learning experience for the younger ones.
John Roebling's wire shop where he invented wire cable.
Just outside the museum, John Roebling is memorialized as the founder of Saxonburg, back in 1832. Roebling, an architect and engineer, was fascinated with the suspension bridge s and invented the wire rope concept in Saxonburg. From his workshop and adjacent field, he made wire rope cable from 1841 to 1848. The Smithfield Street Bridge in Pittsburgh, built in 1846, was one of his local accomplishments. Now, the original wire rope shop sits next to a short, model suspension bridge here in the park.
Due to the difficulties of hauling cable from rural Saxonburg, he moved his manufacturing facilities to Trenton, New Jersey in 1848. One of his many projects done from that site was the design of the Brooklyn Bridge in New York City. Due to injuries sustained at the construction site, he died in 1869, but his son, Washington Roebling, carried out his father’s plans and completed the bridge in 1884.
Thanking Clarence for the too short tour of the town and museum, I promised to return and then headed east back to the trail. I was half way to Freeport and beginning to enjoy the downhill section of the path.
A miniature waterfall alongside the bike path in Buffalo Creek Gorge.
The trail follows the Buffalo Creek, crisscrossing it a half-dozen times or more. Many of its tributaries can be seen with Kodak moments every ten minutes or so. (That’s one of the reasons it takes me so long to bike anywhere, I keep stopping to take pictures.)
For the last three miles or so of the trail, just before leaving Butler County, the creek twists through the scenic Buffalo Creek Gorge, ending in Freeport at a large construction site for a new overpass. The trailhead was loaded with cars and I spoke to a number of bikers who had come many miles just to try out this trail. None were disappointed.
The southern end of the Butler Freeport Community Trail
Another feature of the trail is geocaching. The Butler-Freeport Community Trail provides access to 40+ geocaches which range from tiny film canister size to a large 50 calibre ammo box size. Twenty historical caches have been placed on the trail as well, and there is recognition if you discover them all.
For more information on the trail, visit: http://butlerfreeporttrail.org/ or on the geocaching opportunities, visit: http://dbhas.info/KJ8A0C. For more information on Saxonburg, visit: http://visitsaxonburgpa.com/.
Stop back soon for my article on the other bike ride – The Great Allegheny Passage with a stop at The Hostel on Main in Rockwood, Pennsylvania.
Some other stories about Butler County, Pennsylvania that you might enjoy: