Make Shenandoah National Park a week-long adventure

All photos by Doug Bardwell | BardwellPhotography.com

Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park is more than just a road. It stands as a living monument to natural beauty, cultural history, and the ongoing story of America’s 21st National Park. Spanning 105 miles along the crest of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, this ribbon of pavement invites visitors to slow down, immerse themselves in nature, and enjoy the splendor of God’s creation in this Appalachian landscape.

Skyline Drive was built in the 1930s and designed to blend into the ridgeline, offering scenic vistas over the Shenandoah Valley to the west and the rolling hills of the Piedmont to the east. The curves, stone guardrails, and overlooks were all placed to make the drive as scenic as the destination. With a 35 m.p.h speed limit, you have time to enjoy the scenery and still keep an eye out for deer and the chance of seeing a black bear.

The idea for Shenandoah National Park started long before construction crews arrived. In the early 20th century, conservationists, politicians, and local leaders lobbied for a park in the East to match the growing system in the West. The Blue Ridge was chosen because of its accessibility to major cities and its scenic beauty. Land was acquired through a mix of purchases, eminent domain, and donations, and by 1935, the Civilian Conservation Corps had begun work on what would become Skyline Drive. The road itself was finished in 1939.

For a sense of place, Charlottesville and the University of Virginia are just about an hour’s drive east of Skyline Drive’s southern entrance.

With 69 overlooks, visitors are rarely more than a few minutes from an opportunity to stop and enjoy the view. Some overlooks face east, perfect for sunrise, while others look west across the Shenandoah Valley, making them ideal for sunset.

Wildlife sightings are frequent. White-tailed deer graze in meadows, wild turkeys forage along the roadside, and black bears occasionally appear, crossing from one patch of forest to another. Rangers advise visitors to keep their distance and store food properly, but seeing a bear from the safety of your vehicle would be a highlight. We didn’t see a one, and my wife was fine with that.

We started our exploration from the southern end of the park, but it would work equally well from any direction.

One of my first stops before my first hike was at the Loft Mountain Information Center.  I’ve never had a better hot dog, served with tavern salsa, crisp locally made chips, and a blackberry milkshake. Blackberries are big in this area – be sure to try them.

On the way out of the park to the north, we drove through Mary’s Rock tunnel, built in 1932, cut through 600 feet of solid rock. I wouldn’t have wanted to be on that work crew. Phew!

Staying Within the Park

Although many visitors choose to drive Skyline Drive in a single day, those who stay overnight discover a different park. Delaware North, the hospitality company that manages Shenandoah’s lodges, operates three distinct properties: Skyland Resort, Big Meadows Lodge, and Lewis Mountain Cabins. Each offers its own sense of place, and together they provide a way to experience the park at different levels.

For those seeking a peaceful environment, Lewis Mountain Cabins at mile 57.5 offer simplicity and privacy. Built in the 1930s, these stone-and-wood cabins remain mostly unchanged in design. Delaware North has updated them with modern comforts, but they maintain a rustic charm. They are available in four options: the minimalist Hiker’s cabin, a one-bedroom, a two-bedroom (where we stayed in unit 13-14), and pet-friendly cabins.  

Each cabin has basic furnishings, and many include fireplaces. Our cabin had very comfortable beds with linens, a large bathroom with handicap fixtures, and plenty of hot water for showers. Each bedroom had a ceiling fan and heater, but no air conditioning. Since mountain temperatures are cooler, air conditioning wasn’t needed.

For many, Lewis Mountain will feel like the closest experience to the park as it was when these cabins were built in the 1930s. Warm chestnut walls and slightly sloped floors give them a quaint, historic charm.

There are also tent sites next to the cabins if you really want to rough it. A small camp store with many essentials is located across from the cabins.

Located at mile 51, Big Meadows Lodge was built in 1939 by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Constructed from native wormy chestnut and stone, the lodge embodies the rustic style of early park architecture. Inside the main lodge, guests find a grand stone fireplace, wood-beamed ceilings, and furnishings that reflect its historic character.

Accommodations run the gamut from small individual cabins, to cluster units, to units attached to the main lodge.

We stayed in Unit 92, a second-floor unit with a balcony and two queen-sized beds. This unit included extra comforts such as a flat-screen TV, air conditioning, a refrigerator, and a Keurig coffeemaker with Starbucks K-cups.

Dining is a key part of the Big Meadows experience. The Spottswood Dining Room serves hearty meals, often using regional ingredients. I had a giant, crisp Caesar salad with delicious shrimp, and Maureen had a hearty-sized pork chop, with mashed potatoes and grilled apple slices. Blackberry iced tea was the perfect accompaniment to both.

The New Market Taproom offers lighter options along with music and adult beverages. Outside the Great Room, the rear deck with comfy seating invites guests to sit and watch the sunset. If it’s cool, you can sit inside on rockers by the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Big Meadows is also a practical hub. The park’s largest visitor center is here, along with a wayside store, restrooms, and the park’s only gas station.

Several of Shenandoah’s top short hikes start nearby. Dark Hollow Falls, just 1.4 miles round trip, is one of the most popular waterfalls in the park. Sadly, a large tree recently fell across the falls, ruining what would have been an otherwise beautiful photo opportunity.

On the other hand, one of the shortest hikes in the park offers some of the best selfie spots I found. Blackrock Trail mainly involves climbing about 50 rock steps from the parking lot to the top of a rocky outcrop. The valley to the west makes an incredible backdrop. Want more adventure? Pick up the Appalachian Trail here and head north to New England or south to Georgia.

The meadow across from Big Meadow Information Center also provides one of the best stargazing sites along the drive, with dark skies free from urban glow.

Skyland

Skyland is located at mile 41.7, atop the highest point in the park. It was established in 1895 by George Freeman Pollock, who imagined a mountaintop retreat for city residents. When the national park was formed, Skyland became the main place for overnight stays. Outside, drivers with electric vehicles will appreciate the dual chargers available.

Today, the resort features a blend of historic buildings and modern rooms. Guests dine in the Pollock Dining Room, where large windows offer views of the Shenandoah Valley.  

There’s also a large outdoor patio, which was very popular with folks who enjoyed the cool outdoor air.  In both places, the dining choices were varied and delicious. Deserts were amazing – Maureen got the rich chocolate tort, and I loved the unbelievable Blackberry ice cream pie.

The Mountain Taproom provides a more relaxed atmosphere with regional beers and live entertainment on select nights.

Sunsets from Skyland are a major attraction. Visitors gather on the terrace or at nearby overlooks to watch the hills change hues as the sun drops behind Massanutten Mountain. Staying here means not having to rush back to a distant hotel but instead lingering as the day fades.

Delaware North’s Role in Renewal

Managing historic lodges in a national park requires a delicate balance. Guests expect comfort, but the settings call for authenticity. Delaware North has taken steps in recent years to preserve both. Renovations include refreshed interiors, improved dining spaces, and upgrades to accessibility, all while maintaining the original character.

Beyond lodging, the company supports conservation efforts. Through partnerships with the National Park Service, The Corps Network, and the Appalachian Conservation Corps, young crews are trained in traditional building techniques and help restore historic stonework and trails. This dual commitment—improving guest experiences while investing in the next generation of stewards—adds a meaningful dimension to any stay.

Part of Skyline Drive’s lasting charm is its year-round variety. In spring, wildflowers bloom abundantly. Trillium, columbine, and azalea light up the forest floor. In summer, butterflies swarm over fields of milkweed and black-eyed Susans. Autumn needs little introduction: the ridges burst with red, orange, and yellow, making Shenandoah one of the top fall destinations in the country. Even winter remains appealing. The leafless trees reveal scenic vistas hidden during warmer months, and the quiet roads reward those seeking solitude.

Wildlife also changes with the seasons. Spring brings migratory warblers, summer fills the meadows with butterflies, and autumn is the time to hear deer rut. Black bears are active from spring through fall, though they usually retreat in winter. Visitors are reminded to observe wildlife from a distance, both for safety and for the animals’ health.

While many visit for the drive, Shenandoah is also a hiker’s paradise. Over 500 miles of trails wind through its forests, including 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail. For those looking for shorter trips, several hikes under 2 miles round-trip are easily accessible from the road.:

• Stony Man Trail (1.6 miles round trip): A short climb to one of the park’s best overlooks
• Dark Hollow Falls (1.4 miles round trip): A steep hike down to a cascading waterfall. Tip: The fire road just north is only .5 miles longer, but it’s a gentle slope all the way to the falls.  
• Blackrock Summit (.4 mile round trip): A rocky viewpoint with sweeping valley views.
• Limberlost Trail (1.3 miles round trip): Fully accessible, with Hemlock cover, boardwalks and even terrain.

These hikes allow walkers of all ages to connect with the park beyond the windshield.

Practical Considerations

Visitors should plan ahead, as cell service is limited in much of the park. Gas is available at Big Meadows, but it’s wise to top off before entering. Food and restrooms are available at waysides approximately every 25 miles. Weather can change quickly in the mountains, so layers are recommended even during summer. Staying overnight inside the park makes it easier to see both sunrise and sunset without driving long distances after dark.

A Road to Reflection

Skyline Drive is more than just a scenic route; it also serves as a reminder of the core values that formed the national park system. It honors the efforts of 10,000 young men in the Civilian Conservation Corps, who worked here during the Great Depression in order to send money home to their families. 

It also reflects the vision of conservationists dedicated to preserving the Blue Ridge, and embodies the ongoing dedication of those who manage and protect the park today.

Driving this road feels like entering a story that has unfolded for more than a century. Staying at its lodges allows you to connect more deeply with that history, whether by dining in a chestnut-beamed hall, sitting on a terrace at sunset, or sleeping in a cabin built in the 1930s.

Disclosure:

We were hosted on this trip by Delaware North, managers of Lewis Mountain Cabins, Big Meadows Lodge, and Skyland Resort. No financial remuneration was involved, and as always, comments here are solely our own.