By Doug Bardwell
All photos ©2025 Doug Bardwell | Bardwell Photography
I just returned from the pristine Patagonian wilderness aboard Ventus Australis, and this expedition cruise left a lasting impression as one of the most exhilarating and rewarding small ship cruises I’ve ever experienced. Blending luxury with education, and serving great food alongside endlessly flowing Chilean wines, I met and made friends with fellow explorers from six different countries.
This all-inclusive cruise through the Patagonian wilderness is the perfect choice if you want to experience untamed beauty without sacrificing comfort, like enjoying a warm meal or relaxing in a lounge. Now is the time to go, as it’s summer in the southern hemisphere.
Ventus Australis is one of two ships in the Australis cruise line that depart from Punta Arenas, Chile, and Ushuaia, Argentina, taking passengers through the Strait of Magellan and the Beagle Channel all the way to the southern tip of South America, Cape Horn. Following in the footsteps of previous famous explorers, we had the privilege of witnessing some of God’s most incredible creative efforts, still untouched and unspoiled.
A staggering range of experiences while small ship cruising
Along the way, the scenery varies from towering mountains and steep cliffs to massive glaciers. However, when you hike through the pristine woods of these untouched lands, you can discover entire tiny micro-universes growing on the branches of trees. Imagine mini Bonsai trees just 1-1/2” tall growing in a bed of lichen. Fortunately, knowledgeable expedition leaders point out these details you might otherwise miss.
The daily shore excursions are what make this trip special. They are led by expert naturalist guides who give detailed talks and explain what we’re seeing, turning a beautiful view into a meaningful learning experience. With our small groups, each group had guides who spoke up to four languages fluently and had time for all our questions.
That’s another advantage of small cruise ships like Ventus Australis and Stella Australis. While mega ships can carry thousands to a beach, only small, specially designed ships like these can navigate into fjords, narrow channels, and small inlets that bring us face-to-face with nature.
Every traveler is free to create their own experience
Most passengers were eager for adventure. They quickly put on bright orange life jackets, boarded the fast and agile Zodiac landing craft, and were whisked from the ship to the shore for hikes in the pristine wilderness of Patagonia.
Others were always welcome to stay aboard and relax if they chose to skip some of the more strenuous shore adventures. With multiple lounges available, all offering excellent views, there was a library of information, frequent lectures, and engaging documentaries about the area and some of its earliest explorers. This third-floor lounge was just steps from my cabin.
For most shore excursions, there were three levels of activity: a) Coastal excursions typically stayed close to the landing area, resulting in less walking, flatter terrain, and more opportunities for educational activities; b) Lookout excursions required some hiking and stamina to climb hills for better photographic vantage points; c) Summit excursions were for those seeking maximum exercise, hiking at a brisk pace with few stops to reach the highest available lookout points. Luckily for me, being more out of shape than I remembered, I always found great photo opportunities no matter which excursion I chose.
Excursion groups were organized by language spoken. Spanish and English were the most popular, but on our trip, groups were also arranged for both French and German speakers.
Hint: Layers are your friends. Waterproof jackets, sturdy shoes, and quick-dry pants make outdoor trips more enjoyable. (Thanks to some of my friends in the outdoor recreation industry for introducing me to some of the best gear.)
2nd Hint: Be mindful of your mobility challenges. Nearly every shore excursion involves climbing in and out of Zodiacs. Guides will help ensure you board safely, but having bad knees could be an issue. Additionally, these ships have five deck levels and no elevators, so expect to climb stairs daily.
Designed to create friendships
I didn’t expect to come back with so many new friendships. Usually, as a photographer, I’m too focused (no pun intended) on getting the perfect shot, which doesn’t leave time for small talk while traveling.
But to my surprise, this cruise was unlike any other I’ve experienced. Every meal was shared with the same tablemates, all of whom spoke my language. You quickly recognize faces, share stories at each meal, and never feel lost in a crowd.
In no time at all, we bonded over our shore excursions and other leisure activities. Before the trip ended, we exchanged e-mail addresses and promised to share photos and memories from the trip.
The various tour possibilities
Australis offers four different itineraries: a five-day trip sailing from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, a five-day trip from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas, and a nine-day round-trip package starting from either location. I began in Punta Arenas and took the eight-night, nine-day round-trip.
Many land explorations depend on the weather, and taking the nine-day trip gave me several chances to visit some of the most popular destinations in various weather conditions.
Onboard, the atmosphere was always relaxed but elegant. Each stateroom felt like a boutique hotel, with soft duvets, daily turn-down service, and a large window for watching the constantly changing scenery drift by. A lounge chair sat beside the panoramic window, letting you enjoy the view without leaving your room.
Each suite featured a spacious bathroom with a corner shower, full-size toilet, ample counter space on the vanity, and plenty of storage below. A heated towel rack was an unexpected bit of luxury.
There were two tall closets: one for hanging clothes and life jackets, and the other with about a half-dozen shelves to organize your wardrobe. A long desk with two sizeable drawers beneath a giant mirror was situated across from two twin beds, which could be combined to form a queen bed.
Dining: Exquisite meals without the pretentious “Jackets Required”
Every morning featured a double line of buffet displays offering everything from hot entrees and cereals to eight fresh fruit options, pastries, and breads with jellies and jams. Multiple fruit juices, six types of milk, and a variety of coffees and teas completed the beverage selection.
During breakfast, we would choose lunch from a menu featuring three or four entrée options and three salad choices. We would do the same for dinner selections during our lunch break. Each meal also included an appetizer, a soup, and a selection of desserts. My favorites were the King Crab soup and the Congrio Frito, a Panko-crusted Conger fillet.
Before breakfast and into the evening, coffees, teas, and pastries were served in the fourth-floor Sky Lounge.
In the afternoon and evening, the fifth-floor Darwin Lounge provided full bar service with snacks. Many of the lectures and documentaries took place there.
Educational opportunities abounded – on and off the ship
On each off-ship excursion, our guides were walking encyclopedias—happy to answer even my most random questions about glaciers, fjords, flora, and fauna.
One of our favorite guides was Macarena Soto (above), born in Chile. Macarena would have us pause for a minute of silence at each educational stop – what she called “Taking a Patagonian moment,” that we could bring back to mind during our busy lives at home. I’ll never forget my Patagonian moments in the forest surrounding Aguila Glacier’s lagoon, or the one up close to the Porter Glacier, where chunks of ice were calving into the sea.
We learned about the original inhabitants of the area—the Yagans, an indigenous people who lived in this wilderness, without clothing! We also watched a fantastic film about Shackleton’s incredible voyage that everyone couldn’t stop talking about.
Visiting the ship’s bridge, we learned how modern technology supports today’s navigation, but also saw how they still use paper maps to plot their course through challenging waters. A tour of the pristine engine room was an education in specialized engineering designed for cruising these sub-Arctic waterways.
So much to see on an expedition cruise
Each trip provides the chance to see glaciers, including Glacier Alley, penguin colonies, seals and sea lions, various seabirds and cormorants, and the opportunity to hike up to Cape Horn, the southernmost inhabited place in the world.
Usually, each day offered two off-ship explorations – most with landings and hikes, while others involved riding tours on Zodiacs to glaciers in places where landings would have been impossible.
Taking the nine-day cruise offers two chances to see penguins, but on our trip, both were canceled due to high winds – an unfortunate situation that can’t be avoided in this sub-Antarctic region. Obviously, the safety of passengers and crew comes first with Australis.
Some of my favorite destinations (in no particular order) included the Pia Glacier, one of the few glaciers that is “growing” instead of receding. Located in Alberto de Agostini National Park, it’s set back from the Beagle Channel and requires a smaller vessel, like ours, to see it.
The Porter Glacier, where we witnessed numerous calving events as portions of the glacier collapsed into the sea. The Porter Glacier is located in the Pia Channel, and the water is so shallow that only Zodiacs can get close enough to see it.
Glacier Alley is a dazzling corridor of ice. Named glaciers such as Holanda (Holland), Italia (Italy), Francia (France), Alemania (Germany), and Romanche (named after the explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville who discovered them in 1830) line the Beagle Channel, each tumbling down from the Darwin Mountain Range.
Wulaia Bay is a stunning bay with an island, only accessible by Zodiac, and it was home to the Yagan people. A museum there now showcases some of their history.
Aquila Glacier, surrounded by a sub-Antarctic forest, is a stunning location that can only be accessed on foot. The lagoon is too shallow even for Zodiacs.
And then, the crowning achievement of reaching the summit of Cape Horn on Hornos Island.
High above the Drake Passage, there is a memorial to all the sailors who have lost their lives trying to navigate this dangerous area where the Atlantic meets the Pacific. With no other landmasses to block the winds, waves can reach 30 feet high, and winds can exceed 60 knots. Thousands of sailors died here in the 1800s and 1900s.
The monument is a multi-plate sculpture forming the shape of an albatross in flight, symbolizing the souls of the lost sailors set free. Hornos Island is home to just four people: a Chilean Naval officer who maintains the lighthouse, his wife, and two children.
The Time is Now!
“If you want to feel immersed in wild beauty, yet never far from a warm meal or relaxing lounge, this cruise is the answer.”
Doug
If you’ve ever dreamed of standing face-to-face with glaciers, inhaling pure fresh air while wandering in 12,000-year-old forests, or speeding around a floating field of icebergs in a speedy Zodiac, and still returning to a warm bed each night, then a Patagonia luxury cruise is waiting for you. Don’t just watch the wilderness from afar—step into it. Don’t wait—the glaciers are receding faster than we would like.
Look up the Australis website for more information, or contact them directly at one of the following numbers:
United States; +1 800 743 0119; northamerica@australis.com
Chile; +56 22 797 1000; sales@australis.com
Europe; +34 93 497 0484; europe@australis.com
Argentina; +54 11 5983 9402; sales@australis.com
Disclosure: I was hosted by Australis to create this article, but there was no remuneration involved, and, as always, the opinions expressed herein are entirely my own.
All photos: ©2025 Doug Bardwell | Bardwell Photography
